Tuesday, 16 May 2017

Giardino Bardini


Want the Boboli gardens without the queues? You may be in luck. Ignored, forgotten, or simply unknown to many, when you buy a ticket for the Boboli gardens you also gain access to another green oasis in the city a mere five minutes walk away. The beautiful, and far more elusive sanctuary of Villa Bardini and its ornate gardens holds a famous flight of baroque steps, fringed with irises, delicate mosaiced archways, and flowerbeds. I'd recommend a visit in a heartbeat. 

The famous stairs ascend to a beautiful viewing platform and tea room, where you can buy a refreshing drink and sweet pastries, enjoying both with expansive views of Florence. Meandering through the garden you can find areas dedicated to medicinal plants, a 'fountain of the dragon', replica English woods and a medieval 'farming area' complete with hillside terraces planted with olive trees. The gardens aren't exactly a hidden gem, but they're certainly a welcome alternative to the classic tourist trail. There are also some excellent lemon trees round the back of the Villa with gorgeous views out over the city. If you're in the area, it's definitely worth the climb up the hill, and tackling all those steps. 






Friday, 12 May 2017

Forgotten Bookmarks





Everywhere I turn in Florence at the moment I seem to stumble upon art exhibitions. Whether in churches, piazzas, small side-streets or even the opening corridor of the British Institute’s Harold Acton Library there always seems to be something beautiful waiting to be seen.

The current exhibition that welcomes visitors to the library in the small chequered-floored corridor looks at the forgotten bookmarks that have been found over the years in the books on the library shelves. The glass cases in the entrance hall house everything from letters and newspaper cuttings to museum tickets and illustrations. While looking through the original Baedeker guide used in the Merchant Ivory film of A Room with a View (whose anniversary is coming up at the end of this year) the British Institute's Director Julia Race discovered an old museum entry ticket in the pages, and so the exhibition was born. 

As well as personal notes and letters – 'What a beautiful lot of wine!' one begins – there's even a letter from Ava Levenson, a novelist and friend of Oscar Wilde, about her upcoming novel Tenderhooks. It's incredible to see the forgotten fragments of past lives that live on in the books we read, and especially those that have passed through the haven that is the Harold Acton library in the busy centre of Florence. I've often thought of a library as a crowd of voices, each book another thought, another idea, another story, just waiting to be discovered. In this exhibition the objects on display only enhance this feeling.

Libraries are communal spaces, and reading is often said to be a solitary activity, browsing the library books and realising how many have done so before me and left their small but traceable marks is somehow comforting. While studying the ornate map of Florence that was found folded up, I can't help but wonder if I've accidentally left anything between the pages of a book that might be found by an unsuspecting stranger many years from now. I wonder what my 'Forgotten Bookmark' will be . . .




Thursday, 11 May 2017

An Englishman in New York





Director of the British Institute of Florence Julia Race & Artist Bill Jacklin 

This week's Culture Talk saw British Artist Bill Jacklin take to the floor with an immersive and intimate survey of his works from New York. Jacklin left London in 1985, after studying Graphics at Walthamstow and painting at the Royal College of Art and moved permanently to the Big Apple, whose energy attracted him. Here he discovered Manhattan had not really been painted after WWII, and many of his first subjects came from scenes he witnessed on a daily basis that remained common but neglected by the artistic community. 

As a draughtsman Jacklin responds directly to stimuli, to images he encounters in real life, many sketches (often as many as 40/50 studies) form the basis for a painting and the final composition that piece will take. He began by looking from the windows of his apartment on 6th Avenue, and his second floor studio in the famous Meat Market, finding renaissance crucifixion scenes in the hanging produce brought in and out by the butchers each day. 

Light is a fascination for Jacklin: ‘light and the effect of light on surfaces’. It’s an interest that enlivens what would normally be mundane scenes; even in ‘Sandwich Eaters’ he finds beauty, a strange geometry and light that frames ordinary figures in vividly new perspectives. Double images are also a feature of his work, a trait developed from his love of film and his continuous drafts, where occasionally he will simply paint a scene, only to look again a moment later and paint the same subject again as it has changed. By paralleling the camera Jacklin emphasizes the mystical qualities of paint, his subjects capture the essence of things, the refracting light of fireworks in the sky, the subtle reflections of raindrops as they fall. His skill as a speedy draughtsman also allowed him unprecedented access to the city; his photographic eye permitted entry to Police station waiting rooms and other contested spaces where cameras were unable to enter. 

Despite wandering the entire city Jacklin found himself drawn back to certain places again and again. He went up to 87th avenue to replicate the crowds walking down by the Rockefeller centre, 42nd Street ‘when it wasn’t Disneyland’, Grand Central Station – looking back he laughs realising he’s only really painted a few streets of New York. One of these recurring subjects is skaters, but also the chess players in Washington Square which in Jacklin’s eyes becomes a triptych, figures represented in double as they move from one frame to another. A ‘sister painting’ depicts the same place at night with a woman invading the scene as she runs after her stolen bag. 

Turner is a clear influence, as is Whistler, the crowds of the city become something mystical in Jacklin’s eyes, a surging force where ‘the movement of the crowds are forming my music, my muse’. The rhythms of a scene replicate themselves in paint, Washington square and the skaters are portrayed as ‘swirling and whirling’, ‘I'm a sucker for that subject’ he confesses, the motion of bodies a means of portraying the intimate relationships between people as they’re played out upon the ice. 

'I never paint anything if I haven't been there. I have to have a relationship. I paint about Relationships.' After all 'making a drawing is making a mark'. For Jacklin the process of creation is practically primal: 'I'm creating my own language, the painting comes out of the making of a mark'.  Listening to him talk about his process is captivating: ‘The paint informs the subject it’s not the other way around’. 

He works large but often starts out small, showing us the pastel studies for a painting that only measures 12 inches but turned into 12 feet by its completion, almost it seems by accident: ‘you do it and then you've done it’. Moving through different sizes, moving through different modes of interpretation and presentation, these transformations of the work become a means of articulation, enabling Jacklin to ‘work through who I am’. 

Jacklin is quick to note at the start of his talk the strangeness of having an Englishman talk about his New York art in a city as culturally rich as Florence. The last few slides he shows us are the few pieces he has completed in the past of Florence with the rich reflections and colours of the dying sun shifting in a mirage of the Arno. Talking about the crowds milling in Piazza del Republica it’s hard not to wish that perhaps Jacklin might make Florence the next city he encounters in paint. ‘I guess that’s the difference between Florence and New York’ he ponders when looking back at his New York work, ‘things change much faster, a building comes up and comes down.’ ‘I paint about change’.

When asked how he knows his work is finished he notes that there’s a running joke that it’s only ‘when the truck comes up’ to collect it. His best work so far? ‘What I’m going to do next’. Let's hope Florence might see some more of Jacklin in the years to come. 

Monday, 8 May 2017

Galleria Palatina e Arte Moderna



More photos coming soon – but isn't the inside of the Galleria Palatina incredible with its red carpets, marble statues and gold finishes? The Royal Palace itself is like a jewellery box, every room filled with beautiful paintings and embellished with gold finishings at every turn. Definitely worth a visit on a rainy florentine day. 






Thursday, 4 May 2017

Back to School


A week has already flown by, so I thought it was about time I show you where I spend most of my mornings here in Florence, the language school! As well as the famous Harold Acton Library the British Institute own another space for their famous language centre which is based on the north side of the Arno in the beautiful Piazza Strozzi, just a quick stroll across Ponte Santa Trinita and through Via de Tornabuoni and Via Porta Rossa (both streets studded with every exciting designer shop you can imagine). Handily it's got the wonderful Odeon bistro coffee shop based just below it and the famous Cinema Odeon Firenze right around the corner, so right in the thick of things while still just outside of the main tourist trails. The long corridors are lined with gorgeous art works, an assortment of comfortable chairs and a couple of very welcome vending machines. 

Every morning just before 10am I climb the many flights of stairs up to the last floor (there is a lift but I figure it's good practice to counter the vast quantities of delicious pasta I'm consuming). Here, usually in room 11, I study with my fellow Beginners till 12:45 (with a coffee break – ovviamente!). There are quite a lot of us at the institute this spring term, so we're divided into groups, for us there's Group 1 and Group 2, with everyone from a Hungarian banker, gap year and university students, post-university students, writers, musicians and nursing assistants. A wonderful mix of people from all walks of life who are all just as excited to be in Florence learning Italian. Perfetto! 




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The Marvels of Clarence Bicknell


                       


Continuing with the botanical theme (see my post on visiting the orto botanico) this week's cultural talk at the British Institute was about ‘The Marvels of Clarence Bicknell’. Although well known and respected in Liguria, the Riviera and the Martine Alps, this intrepid botanist, writer, and artist remains relatively unknown in the UK. Impressive given that there are several species named after him, everything from Pimpinella bicknellii, a beautiful small white flower, to a particular type of Australian ant. 

Next year is Bicknell’s centenary so I’m sure this won’t be the last we’ll be hearing about his work and beautiful watercolours over the next few months. 2018 is also the release date for his first official biography by Valerie Browne Lester, which should hopefully give more context to the prolific recorder and the 7,000 plus artefacts, of pressed flowers, letters, and paintings that he left behind. Graham Avery, previously a fellow of the European Institute and now at St. Antony’s College Oxford, and Bicknell’s own relative Marcus reflected in their talks that Bicknell never courted the English elite while he was working, he didn’t go to any of the important meetings and practiced outside of England, so his impressive legacy has largely been ignored. 

We began the evening with a short documentary produced by french film maker Rémy Masséglia, which certainly transported us all into Bicknell’s Riviera world. With swooping landscape shots of the luscious fields and mountainous areas that Bicknell explored it certainly set the scene beautifully for Graham Avery’s brilliant exploration into the self-taught botanist's work. Born in 1842 in Herne Hill near London, the 13th child in a large family, Bicknell ended up studying at Cambridge University and entering the Anglican church. After doubts with his faith he wrote ‘I fear I have become rather narrow’, and soon after taking on the chaplaincy at All Saints Church in Bordighera threw off his dog collar at the age of thirty-five and threw himself into the flowering plants and ferns of the surrounding environment and neighbouring mountains. His first published book Flowering Plants and Ferns of the Riviera, came soon after in 1885. 


In 1897 he discovered prehistoric engravings while out walking in the mountainous Fontanalba and took to heading out each day to make delicate rubbings and copies of the engravings in order to raise awareness of their existence, sometimes lying flat out on the rocks for several hours to capture the images as precisely as he could. He loved the area so much that he ended up building a house there which he named Villa Fontanalba. Sadly the estate is now owned privately, but from the sounds of it, the hand crafted interiors with their mural walls and hand-painted scenic depictions rival that of the Bloomsbury group. 

One very interesting point that was made when flicking through Bicknell’s elaborately decorated guest-book for his Villa Fontanalba (which alone speaks volumes for the care and artistry that Bicknell took with the details of his home) was that he had written the entire document in Esperanto. Apparently this was common for Bicknell who was deeply involved in the movement for the universal language pioneered by a Polish doctor that envisioned a means of international communication. He was even vice president of the Esperanto society in Italy. 


Described by Avery as ‘incredibly modest’ his humble work ethic of concentrating on recording his findings (as opposed to interpreting), hindered his fame abroad. At one point Avery laughed and compared the fascination that Bicknell had with flora and fauna akin to collecting stamps, with each botanist always eager to see a specific they had yet to see before, specimens were traded around like stamps, each flower had its own particular fascination and worth to the beholder. Bicknell spread dried plants all over the world in correspondence with a variety of influential botanists, a dedicated writer his commitment to communicating with his friends, family and contemporaries can be attested by the vast paper trail he left behind, such as his 700 plus archive of postcards and letters to Émile Burnat. His carefully hand illustrated notes are incredibly inspiring in a world where pen and ink correspondence feels fairly neglected (also an excellent reminder that it's always a good idea to send more postcards). 


It was wonderful to learn so much from such a passionate assortment of people about a man whom otherwise I would probably have never come across. I particularly loved the fact that Bicknell preferred wild flowers over cultivated ones, one book he owned was called 'the triumph of the dandelion', and I think the title says a lot about the optimistic spirit of this adventurous botanist.  

Graham Avery ended by telling us all the best places to visit Bicknell’s work. For those interested they are as follows: Biblioteca Bicknell (Bordighera), Musee des Merveilles (Tende), and Val Fontanalba. They've all certainly made it on to my ever growing list of places to visit! 

For more information about Clarence Bicknell click here.
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Monday, 1 May 2017

Orto Botanico





Happy Primo Maggio! Hopefully you're spending your May day doing some exploring. Here's a few snaps from my wandering on Saturday of the Botanical Gardens, the Orto Botanico of Firenze. It's amazing to think these botanical gardens are the third oldest in the whole of Italy, coming just after Padua and Pisa. They may be relatively small (currently 2.39 hectars), but these gardens contain a lot. Founded on December 1st 1545 when the Grand Duke Cosimo dei Medici bought the land from Dominican sisters, at the time the land was an orchard known as Giardino dei Semplici because it has been used to cultivate medicinal plants, and still is to an extent today. Highlights include the huge Orangerie that confusingly contains an abundance of ferns, the many potted lemon trees, the fragrant perfume of the giant roses coiled around wire structures, the Yoga taking place in the middle of the gardens by the fountain (I thought papping people as they found their inner zen might ruin the moment hence no photos of that particular joy - mi dispiace). 

The gardens were originally designed by Niccolò called "il Tribolo" the designer behind several other grand ducal gardens produced around the same time, like the Medici villa in Castello (another place I have yet to explore). The entire area is divided into many beautiful avenues of plants, trees and smaller green houses. At first the giardino was directed by the botanist Luca Ghini a favourite of the Botanical Gardens at Pisa, but by the 18th century the generosity of Cosimo III Dei Medici saw the gardens put under the direction of the Florentine Botanical Society and the botanist Pier Antonio Micheli.

Weather wise I was very lucky, the sun shone and showed the garden in its best light, it's a very tranquil spot and well worth the walk just a little north of the historical centre. Anyway, I hope you all had a very happy May day.

















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